|
The roads of the Southern United
States are lined with a succession of grinning pigs, advertising the
availability of barbecue in countless restaurants. The origins of barbecue in
the South, however, are traceable to a period long before the smiling pig became
a fixture on Southern roadsides. The etymology of the term is vague, Bon
Appetite magazine blithely informs its readers that the word comes from an
extinct tribe in Guyana who enjoyed "cheerfully spit roasting captured enemies."
The Oxford English Dictionary traces the word back to Haiti, and others claim
(somewhat implausibly) that "barbecue" actually comes from the French phrase
"barbe a queue", meaning "from head to tail." Proponents of this theory
point to the whole-hog cooking method espoused by some barbecue chefs. Tar
Heel magazine posits that the word "barbecue" comes from a nineteenth
century advertisement for a combination whiskey bar, beer hall,
pool establishment and purveyor of roast pig, known as the
BAR-BEER-CUE-PIG.
HAS THE
ORIGIN OF THE WORD BARBECUE BEEN SOLVED?
It was also widely thought that
the word barbecue come from "barbacoa" which is Spanish for a Taino word which
means a rack made of wood on which meat is roasted over flames. According to
normally reliable references, the Taino, indigenous people of the Caribbean and
Florida, were extinct by about 1610. But it has now been established that they
still survive today.
The Taino say the word barbecue
comes from the Taino language. "Ba" from Baba (Father), "Ra" from
Yara (Place) "Bi" from Bibi (Beginning) "Cu" from Guacu (The
Sacred Fire). Or, "The beginning place of the sacred fire father." they further
explained that, "Taino Barabicoa" means "The stick stand with 4 legs and
many sticks of wood on top to place the cooking meat." And that, "Taino Barabicu"
means "the sacred fire pit".
Chief Peter Guanikeyu Torres, the
Taino Elder is believed to be the great grandson of the late Taino Chieftain of
the district of Jatibonico, an area in Puerto Rico known as Orocobix. He is
President of a national Native American non-profit organisation called the Taino
Inter-Tribal Council. In November, 1993, the Taino renounced 500 years of
oppression and over 300 years of alleged extinction and declared themselves a
whole and viable people. And modern too.
According to Chief Guanikeyu, the
Timucua, Guacara and Calusa tribes of Florida and the South-eastern United
States are also Taino who migrated from the Caribbean with their culture. It is
looking like the puzzle of the word barbecue may have been solved, and
originated somewhere in the Carolinas in the USA.
Barbecue Before the Civil War
The history of barbecue itself, aside
from its murky etymological origins, is more clear. For several reasons, the pig
became an omnipresent food staple in the South. Pigs were a low-maintenance and
convenient food source for Southerners. In the pre-Civil War period, Southerners
ate, on average, five pounds of pork for every one pound of beef. Pigs could be
put out to root in the forest and caught when food supply became low. These
semi-wild pigs were tougher and stringier than modern pigs, but were a
convenient and popular food source. Every part of the pig was utilized, the meat
was either eaten immediately or cured for later consumption, and the ears,
organs and other parts were transformed into edible delicacies. Pig slaughtering
became a time for celebration, and the neighborhood would be invited to share in
the largesse. The traditional Southern barbecue grew out of these gatherings.
At the end of the colonial period, the practice of holding neighborhood
barbecues was well-established, but it was in the fifty years before the Civil
War that the traditions associated with large barbecues became entrenched.
Plantation owners regularly held large and festive barbecues, including "pig
picking's" for slaves. In this pre-Civil War period, a groundswell of regional
patriotism made pork production more and more important.
Relatively little of the pork produced was exported out of the South, and hog
production became a way for Southerners to create a self-sufficient food supply,
Southern pork for Southern patriots. Hogs became fatter and better cared for,
and farmers began to feed them corn to plump them up before slaughter. The
stringy and tough wild pigs of the colonial period became well-fed hogs.
Barbecue was still only one facet of pork production, but more hogs meant more
barbecues. In the nineteenth century, barbecue was a feature at church picnics
and political rallies as well as at private parties.
A barbecue was a popular and relatively inexpensive way to lobby for votes, and
the organizers of political rallies would provide barbecue, lemonade, and
usually a bit of whiskey. These gatherings were also an easy way for different
classes to mix. Barbecue was not a class- specific food, and large groups of
people from every stratum could mix to eat, drink and listen to stump speeches.
Journalist
Jonathan Daniel's, writing in the mid-twentieth century, maintained that
"Barbecue is the dish which binds together the taste of both the people of the
big house and the poorest occupants of the back end of the broken-down barn.
Political and church barbecues were among the first examples of this phenomenon.
Church barbecues, where roasted pig supplemented the covered dishes prepared by
the ladies of the congregation, were a manifestation of the traditional church
picnic in many Southern communities. Church and political barbecues are still a
vital tradition in many parts of the South
|
|
